Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
